It was time to plan a vacation, or as the two of us call it, an advanture. Right after New Years holidays we started planning our summer adventure.
Since last year was devoted to the adriatic sea and its islands, this year there was a plan to visit some ware egszotic destinations. Bali was No One on our wishlist.
Long before we started our research on things to do and visit on bali. As our investigation carried on we fell more and more in love with that distant place. After 3 months of browsing the net, googling it, March come and we were supposed to know for sure if our adveture was still on or not. Unfortunately, the year 2017 was not inclined to us and our trip to Bali didnt happen. There were many reasons for it, that I wont write about here.
But our plans to visit Bali are not cancelled, thats for sure.
When our plans to visit Bali went down the drain, we decided to go to Croatia instead. No metter how many times I hear people saying how Croatia has got nothing to offer, I could never agree with it. The proof of its worth are many awards that Croatian Littoral got from different world tourist agencies. My better half and I started making plans and finally agreed on the date of departure.
It was July, 16th. I know it was at the peak of the season and finding accomodation was almost impossible at that time. Also, the prizes of accomjodation went ski high (espeacially for us Bosnians) becouse of the foreigness that come from all over Europe.
We cant compete with their standards of living, and when they can indulge themselves with all the pleasures Croatia has to offer, we on the other hand, have to calculate on every mark (euro) we spend. But money is not an issue here, becouse we had a plan. I m saying a plan, but to be honest, we didnt plan anything but to actually visit some distant islands.
Finally we set off on our journey to Dalmatia. Since we didnt bring our suitcases with us (we got rid of those long time ago), we packed our backpacks and set off. Early in the morning we checked in to Omish where we spent a night and tried to figure out where to go next from here.
Omish is esecially beautiful for me becouse of Cetina. But our stay there was a bit different then before becouse of the fire-fighting aerplanes constantly flying over our heads. We found ourselves there at the time when there were fierce fires around Split,Sibenik and Omish. We didnt mind the planes but only prayed for fire to stop burning. In the evening we discussed where to go from there and decided to go to Split, Vis and further on.
We agreed to go to Vis becouse we wonted to sail the open sea. Our goal was to visit two open-sea islands, Brusnik and Svetac.
In the morning we set off to Split, where we cought a ferry to Vis. Since we had a car we changed our plans and decided to visit Kornate first.
As we were driving next to Split the scenes we saw were horrific, there was fire everywhere. As far as arriving somewhere on time is concerned, no mather how early we start our journey, we always arrive late becouse of the constant stopping and sightseeing, and it wasnt any different this time. We had to stop and find a place to crash for the night.
We arrived at Biograd on the Sea, asked arround for free rooms, but everything was full. There were no free rooms anywhere. Two hours later, we arrived at camp MIA. After a short conversation at the reception, we were shown our own place to camp, and we put up our tent. Thereis really nothing better than bumping into a really nice person willing to help you. We tried to put up a tent, but it was hard becouse it hadnt rained for so long and the soil was hard. It was dry and rocky.
So instead of a regular 20 minute tent set-up, we ended it two hours later, wet,tired, thirsty, sweaty, smelly, hungry… we put our stuff in the tent, and went for shower and something to eat. Biograd on the sea was crouded with tourists. So at around 11p.m. we found a place to eat and then we went to sleep. It was all great until we come to our tent. I tried to sleepbut I couldnt becouse somewhere in the distance I could hear our folk singers singing. Thank God my girlfriend fell asleep, at least one of us could get some rest. We got up at around 6a.m. so we packed our stuff and went on board a home-trade vessel that was supposed to sail around Kornat and Telaščica. It was just like any other trip of that kind : you get to drink wine, eat fish, all inclusive but cheap. We Bosnians like to take everything thats offered.
We were sailing toward the park,seeing beautiful scenery all around us. After some time we arrived at Telaščica and we went off the boat. We had around two hours free time that we spent sightseeing the cliffs or the Salt lake. Salt lake is healthy becouse of its mud that is used to cure many diseases. It is salty becouse there are small cracks at the bottom of it where sae water constantly penetrates the lake( so it was said by the local people there). The lake itself easnt interesting to us, so we decided to climb the cliffs that were a 15 minute walk from the lake.
It was sunny and really hot but we were determined to check out that location. We climbed the cliffs and over thrilled becouse of the view,altitude and raw power you could feel on the edge. These cliffs reach 160m altitude, Telaščica has actually been deslared National park since 1980.
After sightseeing we got on board our boat and headed towarsds a private island called Katarina. We were supposed to eat lunch there. When we arrived, they offered fish again but there were some other kinds of meat(finally). Since I was really hungry (as always) I took everything offered while my better half was a bit more polite to only take what could fit the plate.
From Katarina we headed towards Biograd on the sea. We arrived at 7p.m. we packed our staff, left the camp and headed towards Split. We had arranged earlier to spend a night at our friends hause in Split. She greeted us really politely, it felt like home. But we had to go to sleep early becouse we had to catch an early ferry to Vis. Early in the morning our friend drove us to the port where we boareded the ferry called Petar Hektorović. It was a 3-hours sail. When we got off the ferry we cought the bus to Komiža. An interesting fact is that araound 80% of people at Vis are foreigness, and it feels like a totally different continent. Its not becouse of the climate, but the people who are different and they have different behaviour from the people on the continental area.
We arrived to Komiža at around noon, once again we found ourselves searching for a place to stay. Everywhere we had asked, it was all full. We even went to the tourist info center, where a nice girl hooked us up with a women called Perica. She is a nice, elderly lady that agreed to give us a room. She offered us the cheapest accomodation we could get, but it was clean and nice and all we needed.
We unpacked our stuff, went for a swim, had some rest, and in the evening we wentsearching for our ride to the island of Svetac. First we had a cold beer and then we went searching for sailer and his boat tahat would take us ther. Pretty soon we found what we were looking for. It was NIKA ADVENTURE TOURS, a local sailor, great adventures, seal-over that we could easily find an agreement with. We had a beer to celebrate our luck and tehn we went to sleep.
The next day was ours to rest. We were lying on the beach, swimming in the clean, beautiful Adriatic sea. We were not like regular tourists who spend a day on the beach, then go for walsk in the evenings, eat dinners at fancy restourants… when night come we started packing and getting ready for our main adventure, and taht was sailing to Svetac and Brusnik.
It was half past 7 and we were standingnext to the boat. There were 8-10 of us on the boat, including the captain and his pet, a dog, crazy in love with the water and the sea.
We soon set off on our journey, we left the port and headed to the open sea.
After an hour of peaceful waters, a south wind started blowing. It was my first expirience of the south wind, at the open waters, on a small boat.
It wasnt the best feeling evers, the boat was roching and I was feeling sick. Since I couldnt get off the boat, I lay down and just stared at the sky. I spent two hours lying. After some time, the wind was calming down and the captain said that Brusnik was ahead of us.
Here is some facts about Brusnik. It is a magical island, and mystical too. Its a vulcano as well. There is a single beach, with pebbled and round stones, although now there are more bigger ones becouse the tourist take pebbles as souvenirs.
Fishermen used to fish around it and used it for shelter during the winter season. They would dry their nets, wich were made of cotton, on the island. In the middle of the island there are springs wich are salty. This also helped fishermen keep everything they would catch fresh.
During winter storms water somethimes cuts the island oin half. After we expored the island and learnd everything about it from our captain, we boarded our boat and set off towards Svetac. Its a 30-40 minute voyage but since you can srr the island it doesnt seem that long.
We sailed the island and we come to a beautiful cove. We spent a couple of hours there, had lunch, swam, dived, and overall enjoyed in everything it offered. Our captain made us an excellent meal, wich included not only fish but some other sea food that I really licker. After we had some rest there we continued sailing around the island until we reached another cove.
Again some facts about Svetac. Svetac is a magnificent island owned by Zanki family. Theyve lived on that island for over 250 years. It was been inhabites even since the Old Greek period, then the Roman times from wich there are remains of Teutas tower ( the property of Queen Teuta on the far east and of the islands).
Affterwords the island was inhabited by Benedictinemonks that also left remeins of a manastery on the south-east end from the 15th century. The Zanki family took it over from the church. In between two WW the island had a population of around 80 people while today its uninhabited. Its only visited by Zanki family during the summer.
After we got to th island, our captain, who is a co-owner of the island btw, took us to his home. It was a 30 minute walk to his home. But considering the heat, hat down for the 5 of us climbing there.we arrived to our destination and we were thrilled. These people have no electricity, rumming water, no luxury at all but they have everything they need. They get their water from the rain, and they use solar energy to provide themselves with the electricity needed to power certain devices. The yiew is underscribable. At the top we were greeted by a couple of people, and a couple of donkeys that we played with and took some photos of. After that we headed back to the boat.
We got on the boat and sailed towards Komiža, the island of Vis. The sea was calm, it wasnt windy at all and then something incredible happened. We were surrounded by dolphins. Where ever we looked we could see dolphins swimming. We were overwhelmed. At arround 9:30 p.m. we arrived at a port in Komiža. We didnt hit the sack immediately. We had to discuss everything we had experienced over a beer.
Since my childhood dream of visiting the islands of Svetac come true, I was ready for another adventure. My new dream island is Palagruža; can’t wait to make that dream come true as well.
After we had beer and some rest we headed to our rooms, and dead on our feet we went to sleep. But it was impossible to sleep since all the images were flashing through our heads. Finally , after some turning and tossing, we fell asleep.
The next day we packed our stuff and we were ready for another ferry ride. We sailed towords Split. After a 3-hour voyage we arrived to Splitwere we were greeted by our friend who had made us a real Turkish coffe; Ohh did it taste good!! We didnt have coffe for days so this one brought us back to life. Later on we continued travelling until we reached Omish. We found a room for that night and headed to the beach. It was the last night of our short but sweet adveture.
We spent most of the night on the beach, listening to the music that was comming from the restaurants near by, watchng the sky full of stars, and thinking about everything we had visited, Brusnik and Svetac.
In the morning we oacked our staff and went even further south where we crossed boarder and headed toward our home town, Tuzla.
Dalmatia as always was full of suprises, undiscovered places, natural beauty, historical monuments….. Becouse, after all, Dalmatia is not only riviera, a night out, going to the beach and findinga place to sunbathe… It is much more than that; a place to ivestigate and enjoy everything…every new sunrise brings. For many it is a hidden limitless beauty.
This was a bautiful, overwhelming experience, one you have to live to believe.
Article & video: Sunčica & Mario