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Radunica makes me feel like a true Dalmatian

Radunica Split

While I was still a student of architecture, I got the task to explore one of the oldest neighborhoods in Split. My task to explore Radunica. It is a small neighborhood that won me with the charm of small and narrow streets. In this article, you will learn the history of this part of the city as well as the problems today. Simply, the most important information.

Table Of Contents
  1. History of Radunica neighbourhood
  2. History of street names
  3. Radunica is becoming more and more a tourist resort
  4. Too many things have changed
  5. Dani Radunice
  6. Recommended Experiences

History of Radunica neighbourhood

When the Diocletian’s palace became small for its inhabitants, several neighbourhoods were founded around it. Some of them are Dobri, Manuš, Veli Varoš, and Lučac. For the first time, the neighbourhood Lučac is mentioned during the 13th century. Situated on the east side between Diocletian’s Palace and Gripe fortress. The main connection consists of two long streets, one of them is Radunica. Do you know that Radunica is not just a street name? That’s the name for the whole neighbourhood.

History of street names

The main street of Radunica is connected by numerous short and narrow streets. The names of these streets are also very interesting because they got the original families that lived there – Kuzmanić, Trumbić, Ružić, Duplančić, Petrić, Bubalo, Prvan, Dvornik, Čulić, etc. The neighborhood makes a very dense arrangement of stone houses, which are largely without any stylistic features. The history of this neighbourhood is also very interesting. Actually, during the Second World War, some parts of the city were destroyed during the Allied bombing from the air. 

Radunica is becoming more and more a tourist resort

However, life in this neighbourhood due to increased tourism in the last couple of years is increasingly disappearing. Today Radunica is primarily an apartment street.  Many residents have left their homes and converted into apartments. Most of them don’t want to return because of the large profits.

Too many things have changed

You will very rarely hear children today on the street. It is particularly empty during the winter months. Look at this information! In 1994 Radunica had as many as 8 cafe bars and today it is only one. Moreover, the houses have received various upgrades and many strange architectural solutions.

Dani Radunice

However, this neighbourhood every year comes alive in the last week of June (for St. Peter). The reason is the return to the past during the festival called Dani Radunice. It is a traditional festival that lasts more than two decades. On that day the street becomes like in old times when it was a place of socializing with a raffle, sports matches, and music. Incidentally, this is also the biggest event during the year in this part of Split.

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Riva Split, a place where you will feel the pulse of the city

Except for Diocletian’s Palace, Riva Split is certainly the most interesting place in the city of Split. Here is the morning coffee with a view on the harbour, boats, and people passing by. All important events are held here. Here are organized sports welcomes and protests. It is also a sacred place because there is the procession of St. Duje, patron of the city of Split and its citizens. In fact, this is where you will feel the pulse of the city.

Table Of Contents
  1. The main information
  2. One of the most beautiful harbour promenades of the Mediterranean
  3. A wealth of cafes, stalls, bars and restaurants
  4. The Riva was lined with palm trees
  5. Recommended Experiences

The main information

Riva Split is 250 meters long and 55 meters wide and it is the largest public square. It’s located below Diocletian’s palace, more precisely below the former residence of the Roman Emperor Diocletian. From Riva, you can access the magnificent Diocletian’s basement. You can read more about them here. On its western end, there is a Franciscan monastery with the church of Saint Francis, while the eastern end defines the port authority building and newly-built tourist palace.

One of the most beautiful harbour promenades of the Mediterranean

Riva Split took up today’s look in 2006 by one of the most famous Croatian architectural office called 3LHD. A never-ending row of cafes and restaurants make this place special in every part of the day. Simply, you should visit Riva in the morning, at noon and in the evening. I have already written about places like Terminal F restaurant and ZOI Split.

A wealth of cafes, stalls, bars and restaurants

Lately, I often visit the cafe bar Olive Tree. Since it has opened it is my favourite place to relax. And it’s not without reason, because it is perhaps the only one on the entire Riva that you will notice in the sea of almost all the same cafe bars and restaurants. Olive trees with old lamps are definitely a trademark of outdoor decoration.

The Riva was lined with palm trees

In addition to all these things, the most beautiful part of the Riva is definitely part of the palm trees. They were to the Romans a sign of victory, upsurge, renewal, and they have also an important symbolism in Christianity as well. Simply, they make this space magical, and if you are here accidentally at sunset, you will surely want to sit and enjoy the hours in this ambience.

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Medieval fortified town Medvedgrad is an undiscovered attraction

Every year the capital city of Croatia, Zagreb becomes a more and more popular tourist attraction. One of the inevitable attractions of this city is medieval fortified town Medvedgrad. It’s located on the south slopes of Medvednica mountain from where you have a beautiful view of the city of Zagreb.

Table Of Contents
  1. History of Medvedgrad Castle
  2. Oltar Domovine monument
  3. Problems today and the future
  4. Recommended Experiences

History of Medvedgrad Castle

Medvedgrad was build in the 13th century as protection of citizens of Zagreb, bishops, and church treasures. However, he had various rulers throughout history. These rulers enriched themselves very oft by plundering the surrounding villages and often the city of Zagreb. Moreover, the very interesting fact of this place is that it has never been attacked. However, during the 16th century, Medvedgrad was abandoned and since then it has been constantly collapsing. By the end of the 20th century, research and reconstruction of individual parts began.

Oltar Domovine monument

When you get to the south tower you will see the monument called Oltar Domovine (Altar of the Homeland) from 1994, the work of sculptor Kuzma Kovacic. It consists of stone cubes of different sizes and height and 6 blue glass cubes that symbolize the Croatian coat of arms. Indeed, the monument was raised in honor of Croatian defenders and it was opened by the first Croatian President Franjo Tuđman.

Problems today and the future

This place has much more potential than it is today. First of all, there is not good quality road signs or good transportation to there. And when you get to the top probably you will not have reason to stay there for more than half an hour. The worst of all is that decay is becoming more visible every year. Fortunately, it has recently begun a renovation project. In this project apart from the reconstruction of the entire complex, a multimedia museum and a visitor center should be built.

Finally, I have to mention that this place is several times a year completely full. The reasons are events like Music Evenings and the Medieval Festival. 

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Basement halls of Diocletian’s Palace as an inevitable tourist attraction

There are several places in the Split which you surely must visit. One of them is the Basement halls of Diocletian’s Palace. Honestly, when I started living inside the palace I realized how complex and how many interesting places it has. One of the most beautiful attractions of Split is definitely the basement halls of Diocletian’s Palace. Although today’s inevitable tourist attraction, their excavation began in the 19th century.  Actually, most parts were discovered during the middle of the last century.

Table Of Contents
  1. A fantastic piece of history
  2. The mixes of old and new are fascinating
  3. Basement Halls of Diocletian's Palace – problems today
  4. Great for Game of Thrones fans
  5. Recommended Experiences

A fantastic piece of history

This ancient complex was primarily used as the basis for the Emperor’s apartment above them. Because of that fact, the rooms of the basements coincided with the forms of Emperor’s buildings above. However, with the coming of the Middle Ages, the Emperor’s buildings are demolished and some parts of basement halls are used for housing. In one part, even oil and wine were produced.

The mixes of old and new are fascinating

Today, the basement halls of Diocletian’s Palace is full of life. Maybe more than ever before. Through the middle of it, there is a corridor connecting Peristyle and Riva. It is like the underground passage for souvenirs. There are so many vendors selling artworks to souvenirs. If you want to access the basements on both sides of this corridor, you will have to pay a ticket for about 6 euros. Very often these parts are a venue for fairs or exhibitions throughout the year.

Basement Halls of Diocletian’s Palace – problems today

The whole complex contains a large number of halls of different sizes.  I have to point out that the tourism boom in Split has also a lot of negative changes. Basement halls increasingly have problems with moisture and water that damage the stone. Also, the problem is more and more water leaks from the canalization pipes which are above the ceiling. Therefore, I hope that restoration will happen soon. 

Great for Game of Thrones fans

A famous TV show called Game of Thrones used some areas here for filming. In general, movies and series are one of the main motives of travel, especially young people who increasingly choose Croatia as their destination for vacation and entertainment. I think there is a Game of Thrones walking tours you can get tickets to also. 

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Tunnel Grič, a gallery with various exhibitions during the year

This place has become a cult place and one of the most important city attractions of Zagreb right after the opening. Tunnel Grič has become a gallery with various exhibitions during the year.

Table Of Contents
  1. History of tunnel
  2. Tunnel Grič exhibition
  3. Christmas and New Year decorations 
  4. Tunnel Grič main information
  5. Recommended Experiences

History of tunnel

The tunnel was designed in 1943 during the NDH (Independent State of Croatia), and it was completed in 1945. During the Homeland War tunnel was a shelter. After the war, there were several parties, presentations, and exhibitions. However, he didn’t get a real purpose until 2016. Since then the tunnel has become an unavoidable tourist attraction.

Tunnel Grič exhibition

For the first time, I visited this museum in September 2017. There was an exhibition called ‘Croatia je Hrvatska’. The tunnel looked like a time machine that used visitors through numerous social, political, economic and other events of Croatian history. The exhibition was full of projection screens, while the music was in the background. The biggest attraction of this exhibition was the so-called “Rainstorm” in the central hall of the tunnel, where rain was raining all the time. In 2018, this exhibition was awarded as the best in the world by the prestigious international award IIDA Global Excellence.

Christmas and New Year decorations 

During my second visit in May 2018, the tunnel was empty except the central hall where was an exhibition about cycling history in Croatia. Probably the best time to visit this place is during the advent. Christmas fairy tale in the Grič tunnel will so delight the kids like the most magical place.

Tunnel Grič main information

The tunnel Grič is 350 meters long. On its large part, it is 3.2 meters wide while in the central part it is 5.5 meters wide. The tunnel has four exits. To pass the whole tunnel takes around five minutes.

Initially had difficulty finding one of the entrances. Actually, there are multiple entrances. Most importantly, the entrance is free. When you think that you are walking under the old city it is kind of fascinating! In addition, if you are visiting Zagreb during the summer, the tunnel will be a nice stop during hot summer days due to the low temperature inside.

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9 months of my life on Carrarina Poljana square

Considering I’ve been living in the Carrarina Poljana square, more precisely inside the Diocletian’s Palace, the time has come to write my impressions of life there. It is difficult to call the Carrarina Poljana square really square because in its form and ambiance it generally doesn’t characterize a square character. During the tourist season, there are 4 restaurants on it, while during winter it is an empty place where you can only see people who are rushing to their homes.

Table Of Contents
  1. Only 90 people live inside of the Diocletian's Palace
  2. Life in an old stone house
  3. The ambiance of Carrarina Poljana square
  4. Recommended Experiences

Only 90 people live inside of the Diocletian’s Palace

And now how my story begins? The destiny of most college students is to leave their apartments when the tourist season starts. Logical, the departure of the tourists from the apartments means the arrival of students until the start of the new season.  That’s happening every year. And I was the same destiny and my stay on Carrarina Poljana square is over. Statistical data show that currently, only 90 people live inside of the Diocletian’s Palace for the whole year. To be clearer, wherever you watch, we’ll see just apartments.

Life in an old stone house

Besides the location, I was attracted by the fact that I would live in an old stone house. I have to praise that the door from my room was 600 years old. However, a stone house without isolation is not the best solution for life throughout the whole year. It was so difficult to heat the rooms with stone walls and during low temperatures, it was not comfortable.

The ambiance of Carrarina Poljana square

Below our apartment lives an old grandma with a big white dog. During the winter, when her grandchildren come to her, it is the only moment when you’re listening to screaming and noise on the Carrarina Poljana square. Now, it is the summertime and I only listen, tourists, every day. But the lifestyle of life in summer is fantastic. I feel like I’m every day on vacation. The biggest advantage of living on Carrarina Poljana square is the distance to the most important promenade of Split – Riva. Actually, location is the largest center of Split.

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Hill Srđ, the place that provides one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world

If you are visiting Dubrovnik it would be a pity not to climb to the hill Srđ from where you have one of the most beautiful views on the city of Dubrovnik. That’s why this place has become the inevitable tourist attraction of every tourist who is coming to the city. If you are visiting hill Srđ, I recommend you to arrive at the sunset because the place provides one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world.

Table Of Contents
  1. Access options include taxi, cablecar or hiking
  2. Great views and serious history of hill Srđ
  3. Make sure to visit the Homeland War Museum in the fort at the top

Access options include taxi, cablecar or hiking

The best and fastest way to reach the top of the hill Srđ is the Dubrovnik Cable car. The ride takes only 4 minutes. Not so long ago, more precisely in 2010, Dubrovnik got back again the cable car. Actually, during the Serbian aggression in the Croatian War of Independence, it was destroyed. In addition, the first cable car was opened in 1969. There are two other ways to get to the top of the hill Srđ. The first option is hiking, and the second one is a car or a taxi.

Great views and serious history of hill Srđ

Except for the spectacular views at the top, there is also a restaurant with panoramic views, a souvenir shop and an amphitheatre who can be rented. If the weather is good it is a fantastic place to have a drink and watch the sunset over the Adriatic sea.  A little further behind this new tourist complex is the fortress Imperial with a very rich history. After the introduction of war cannons, the French who ruled the city at the beginning of the 19th century decided to build a fortress to protect the city from the north. It was built by Auguste Marmont. He was well-known for building one of the most famous streets in Split, today’s Marmont Street.

After the French rule, Austrians continued to build their fortress, which continued with the upgrading and strengthening of the walls. The last major damage of the fortress happened during the Croatian War of Independence, but the Army of Serbia and Montenegro has never won the fortress. The biggest number of attacks happened on December 6, 1991.

Make sure to visit the Homeland War Museum in the fort at the top

It was once a fortress and today is a museum that explains the Homeland War 1991-1995. Most photos are very sad and see the unfair advantage that Serbia has over the city. However, people survived and pushed Serb forces back. One of the rooms had a running video in English. Explanations are in Croatian and English. This place is absolutely worth visiting and you will surely remember it for your entire life.

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Ilok wine cellars, a historical winery in Eastern Croatia

I visited the most famous Ilok wine cellars located just below Odescalchi Castle. One of the main tourist destinations of continental Croatia is definitely Ilok. Easternmost Croatian city has a lot to offer. The reason why the city is attractive to tourists is more than a thousand years old tradition of winemaking.

Table Of Contents
  1. A stunning story about Ilok wine cellars
  2. Restaurant Old wine cellars
  3. Enjoy an exclusive wine event with the flavours

A stunning story about Ilok wine cellars

The old wine cellars date back to the 15th and 18th centuries. It is interesting that the famous Ilok Traminac was ordered by the English Court for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. Also, one interesting story coming from one of the employees who save a place during the Homeland War, more precisely during the Serbian occupation of Ilok, when he decided to enclose the wall of one part of the Old Cellar and store it as many as 8,000 most valuable archival wines. Without him, today Ilok wine cellars couldn’t talk to the tourists about the story of archival wine collection from the Old Cellar.

Restaurant Old wine cellars

Within the Ilok wine cellar, there is also a restaurant located in the building of a former winery. The old interior gives to the restaurant a special charm and atmosphere. Of course, it would be a shame if you are already coming to Slavonia and you will not taste local food specialties. My favorite dish is definitely Čobanac, probably the most famous dish in these areas. Since I grew up in Slavonia, Čobanac has always been an indispensable dish for some important events and there is one of the reasons why I love him so much. Besides that, I would recommend you to try a Slavonian fiš-paprikaš (spicy fish stew), made from Danube fish.

Enjoy an exclusive wine event with the flavours

In the restaurant, you have also the opportunity to taste all the wines of Ilok wine cellars. And after that, I believe that you will decide to buy a couple of bottles. There is a wine shop inside the building. Of course, the prices are much more acceptable than you can find in the supermarket. The varieties you can find here are Riesling, Rhine Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Traminac, Frankovka, Cabernet Sauvignon.

After visiting the old city I recommend you to visit Principovac Castle and Estate. The place that provides one of the most glorious views in Slavonia. I have written about that place before, and all the information can be found here.

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I visited the little known Diocletian’s Palace walls

Everyone knows about the Dubrovnik walls, but it is a little known to people that Split has the almost same ability on Diocletian’s Palace walls. The reason lies in the length of the promenade itself. It is around 150 meters but the biggest problem is the entrance very limited. In principle, a promenade has no entry. The only way is through the scientific research centre for architectural heritage.

Table Of Contents
  1. Public vs. Private
  2. The continuity of the life inside the Diocletian's palace walls
  3. Great way to spend a day
  4. How to visit it?

Public vs. Private

Another, perhaps a bigger problem is that some parts of the promenade are still privately owned. During my visit, I found on the promenade drying clothes, a grill, a couple of chairs, etc. In principle, this promenade is the terrace of the apartments. And I’m one of them right now because my apartment is between walls and square called Carrarina Poljana. Right inside that wall is my toilet in the apartment. Unfortunately, my apartment has no connection with Diocletian’s Palace walls.

The continuity of the life inside the Diocletian’s palace walls

If you choose to visit this attraction one of the things that will surely surprise you is a large number of TV antennas and satellites. People living here continuously for 1700 years. Actually, one of the reasons why the palace is highly valued and protected by the UNESCO is the continuity of life inside Diocletian’s Palace. Basically, because of this, things like TV antennas shouldn’t be moved.

I must also notice that the promenade is very narrow. In a conversation with the professor of architectural heritage, there is a desire and the opportunity for the expansion to make that promenade longer. Of course, the question is the time and the most financial situation.

Great way to spend a day

The only thing I didn’t write now is a lookout of the walls of the Diocletian’s palace. If you were in Dubrovnik, it is probably one of the greatest attractions to keep up the precious time. Looking at the city from a completely new perspective is the right discovery. It was also a big experience for me who is living a few years in Split.

How to visit it?

If you want to enjoy this phenomenal place, you will have to deal with the Split City Museum.

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Lighthouse Pomorac, a hidden place with a beautiful view

Only a 10-minute walk away from the center of Split, there is a small park very unknown to the public as well as tourists. There is a lighthouse Pomorac, a tomb of an unknown seaman, while above it there is a truncated stone relief of seafarers in the battle with the waves. Author of relief is Andrija Krstulović.

Table Of Contents
  1. Pomorac Lighthouse Info
  2. History of monument
  3. Lighthouse Pomorac, a calm and relaxing place in the city
  4. Similar places to visit in Split
  5. Recommended Experiences

Pomorac Lighthouse Info

The lighthouse called Pomorac is 35.50 meters tall with reinforced concrete structure tower. Rectangular ground floor measuring 1.8x4m. From the narrow side, it’s covered with smooth stones plates, but from the wider side is perforated with round glass elements. It has a total of two larger planes has 5,792 glass prisms. The slender vertical lighthouse is in contrast to the horizontal format of the plastic landscape, both laid on the natural setting of the steep slope of the hill over the sea.

History of monument

The lighthouse was in operation until 1991. Unfortunately, during the Homeland War, the lighthouse got hit by the grenade. A grenade from the Yugoslav Navy’s warship. More interesting, the navy of the state who built this monument. After that nobody cared about this place anymore. It was completely devastating and rusty. Nothing has changed until 2013. That year the whole complex was protected as a cultural asset and completely restored. Unfortunately, during our visit to the top of the lighthouse, we saw the antennae of mobile operators. Although it is difficult to notice it, somehow it ruins the beauty of the whole lighthouse. Lighthouse Pomorac is designed by Ivan Carić and Paško Kuzmanić.

Lighthouse Pomorac, a calm and relaxing place in the city

Maybe the biggest advantage of this place is the sea view itself. Along the edge of the sea, there is a pair of benches who is perfect for relaxation. Also from there is possible to see a new part of the Split harbor. Currently empty but when tourist season starts it will be full. Definitely, if you have free time during your vacation in Split, we recommend visiting that place.

Similar places to visit in Split

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